Tuxedo

I'm a day and a half into New York.  Left New Jersey finally yesterday after following the state line for a bit.  In a couple days I'll climb Bear Mountain, cross the Hudson River, and head on towards Connecticut.  Speaking of bears, I saw my first bear this morning.  Beautiful animal... I was coming down a gentle slope and it was foraging in some grass a ways off.  I didn't want to sneak up on it and startle it, so I made some noise with my hiking poles.  It took off down the hill. Now I wish I'd waited a while and watched it.

It is hot, very humid, and the humidity is expected to get worse as the week goes on.  I'm drinking tons of water (in part thanks to the 'trail angels' who leave huge caches of spring water in coolers for hikers).  But I still feel dehydrated.  Ticks are abundant; every day I find a few on my socks.
Yesterday evening there was a huge thunderstorm; it mostly passed to the north, but the lightning was spectacular.  I stood on a rock pinnacle and watched it cover up the sun, felt the cooling breeze.  Tried to sleep in the shelter, but the mosquitoes were pretty bad so I set up my tent.  I've met a few other hikers:  ET (English Tony), Half 'n Half (from Austria), and Normal (from Vermont).  I've had great conversations with all of them.

Here in Tuxedo, NY for resupply... it's back to the trail tonight, if the weather lets me.

Smiles

Thinking about timing and miles and keeping my momentum up, while taking it more easy on my feet and going at a slower pace. It's lonely and my feet hurt etc., but I'm going to keep going.

Mileage:  270
Undeniable fact:  feet hurt like hell
Lesson learned:  it's the smiles, stupid (not the miles)

Palmerton, PA

Well, here I am in Palmerton, PA.  I hiked 25 miles yesterday and well into the evening to outrun a bad storm everyone said was coming, only to find that the main part of it went south of here.  I still feel justified in having ordered a hiker's breakfast at Bert's Steakhouse.  The french toast was great.

Saw a porcupine yesterday morning, and a snake swallowing a large toad whole.  Unfortunately (or luckily,
depending on how you look at it) I interrupted its breakfast, and the toad hopped away, wobbling a bit. Signs of rattlers.  Deer.  Turtles.  Large rocks overturned by bears looking for grubs.  Back near Boiling Springs I had a stand-off with a woodchuck in the middle of a field.  He was ready to take me on, and
would have, if I hadn't backed up a couple steps.  Then he darted to the side.


I love the ever-present song of the wood thrush in the evenings.  Whipporwills in the darkness as I hike, spider eyes glinting along with granite chrystals in my headlamp.  Wild geese flying north.  I don't like the masses of poison ivy, or the presence of ticks.  I've entered the high risk zone for lyme disease, so I have to check for the buggers regularly and wear long pants even when it's hot.

Most of the thru-hikers I meet heading north are passing me within a day or so.  They've been going for over 1,000 miles already and have their legs in machine mode.  But I've managed to keep up with some, if only for a couple days:  Fiddle Head, Northerner, Grandpa, Bailer, Crash, Mac, Z-Man, Two Speed, Baker, Shadow.  Met Cody Coyote this morning.  And there have been many cheerful section hikers.  I am grateful for all their company on the trail.  And, yes, 'Trail Magic' is real:  a bag of fig newtons left in the middle of a footbridge for hikers; jugs of spring water along a dry ridge; a cooler full of PB & J for making sandwiches; and Bob Fromme, with table and chairs and a menu set up every Wednesday at the Clarks Valley Gap Rd. Turkey pasta salad, deviled eggs, chocolate cupcakes... Thanks Bob!
















I have 'zeroed' twice since beginning at Harper's Ferry; once at the Doyle Hotel in Duncannon and once at Port Clinton.  In Port Clinton we waited out the rain in the Hikers' Pavilion.  Today will basically be another one in the Jailhouse Hostel; my feet have endured enough punishment for a while.  The hype surrounding PA and its gnarly rocks is true.  Can't wait for some actual dirt to walk on...

I could put down so much more about the last three weeks.  It is enough to say simply that I am happier than I have been for a long time, despite the physical discomforts.  It's freeing to remember this way of life, this slower rhythm, this path.  My pack is like a feather compared to all my other worries.


Still Sailin' --

'Wilderness Samurai'

Port Clinton, Pennsylvania

Just walked into P. Clinton, eating late brunch @ 3 C's diner, 'bout .3 mile from hiker's pavilion. Will get ride to walmart this aft. for resupply.

Questionable Cuisine

So this guy offered me some rattlesnake and cherry moonshine when I got to a shelter...
Neither of these were legal.

Beer is the Question

Yes is the answer. Finally here, in Duncannan, PA. Had a burger and a birthday beer to celebrate. Still a long way to go....

Did laundry, resorted, reorganized, resupplied.